gordon Posted 12 August 2019 Share Posted 12 August 2019 I'm looking for an Anschutz Torque Wrench model 4506 (001176).If anyone has one available ? Regards ,Gordon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huey Posted 13 August 2019 Share Posted 13 August 2019 There are some bicycle torque wrenches on the market now that offer the same torque range but are not quite as expensive, if you didn't need to absolutely have the AHG one. I'd also rate the AHG version over the (graunchy and less well made, IMHO) Gehmann of similar format. H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon Posted 13 August 2019 Author Share Posted 13 August 2019 (edited) Thanks for that Huey, I've looked at a few , I need one that I can I finely adjust , most of the ones I've seen, its very difficult to get spot on the same settings each time . I have an Anschutz 2013 action with the four stock bolts ,its quite fussy on torque settings ,so thought /hoped that the AHG one would be easier to adjust ? Regards Gordon . Edited 13 August 2019 by gordon Huey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon Posted 13 August 2019 Author Share Posted 13 August 2019 Now sorted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huey Posted 16 August 2019 Share Posted 16 August 2019 What torque setting are you using? In what way fussy, bolts need to all be the same torque or something more peculiar? H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon Posted 16 August 2019 Author Share Posted 16 August 2019 (edited) Hi Huey, 5nm on the front two and 5.5nm on the rear two. These were the settings that the chap who I bought the rifle from recommended. At the moment I'm getting flyers into the 9 ring .The rifle has a stainless steel Lilja barrel and a Fat One tuner and sits in a bedded/pillared Cicognani BR stock ,the flyers are in the horizontal ,not vertical plane. So the torque wrench was to make sure I was getting the correct torque on the four bolts (Anschutz 2013 ) And be able to try different settings if necessary? Regards, Gordon . Edited 16 August 2019 by gordon Huey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim s Posted 16 August 2019 Share Posted 16 August 2019 What's a Lapua barrel? Lapua is a brand of ammunition (the 0.22 stuff being made in Germany nowadays). Do you mean a barrel specifically chambered for Lapua? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon Posted 16 August 2019 Author Share Posted 16 August 2019 (edited) Bit of brain fade I think Tim, should have been Lilja barrel Anyway it begins with" L" and ends in "a". Edited 16 August 2019 by gordon tim s 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huey Posted 18 August 2019 Share Posted 18 August 2019 (edited) On 16/08/2019 at 18:49, gordon said: 5nm on the front two and 5.5nm on the rear two...were the settings that the chap who I bought the rifle from recommended. At the moment I'm getting flyers into the 9 ring...in the horizontal ,not vertical plane. So the torque wrench was to make sure I was getting the correct torque on the four bolts (Anschutz 2013 ) And be able to try different settings if necessary? Certainly advocate the torque wrench to ensure the settings are known and repeatable. I would also suggest doing your own trials with torque settings, especially if you don't have the history of how your current advice was arrived at (though don't forget to undo the bolts using the standard wiggly allen key and not the torque wrench ). You could also change the ammo (or batch) and see if the flyers persist, assuming your technique is OK. You have a barrel tuner so that is another area of experimentation, and likely prior to getting too deep into torque settings. And only change one thing at a time to know what it is that's had an effect. Personally, I set my 20xx rifles to 5nm and have not experimented, purely because I've not found the need. The rifles shoot consistently in the middle with the wobbly thing at the rear the only variable. The less to fuss over, the better IMHO. It's possible 5nm could be improved upon, but I suspect not by anything I could detect. I torque the muzzle end pair first, then the butt end pair after uncracking the previous bolt settings half a turn using the wiggly tool, with the rifle held vertically on the butt end to keep contact on the recoil lug. H. Edited 18 August 2019 by Huey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon Posted 19 August 2019 Author Share Posted 19 August 2019 Thanks for the advice Huey, I will run a few rounds through it at different settings ,I have different batches to try so I'll see what develops. Regards Gordon. Huey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhopper Posted 24 August 2019 Share Posted 24 August 2019 Maybe I’m not understanding the implications of incorrectly tightened bolts but I can’t see how it would cause flyers? I’d expect a consistent amount of poor shots not lots of good ones then occasional bad ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim s Posted 24 August 2019 Share Posted 24 August 2019 24 minutes ago, Rockhopper said: Maybe I’m not understanding the implications of incorrectly tightened bolts but I can’t see how it would cause flyers? I’d expect a consistent amount of poor shots not lots of good ones then occasional bad ones. Stress on the action would be my guess. The 2013 has two pairs, so tension could be lateral not just in line with the barrel. I've not shot a 2013, only the round-square adaptor, and that with a torque driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now