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tim s

ShootingUni
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Everything posted by tim s

  1. tim s

    Centra Spy And Kit For Sale.

    Size? If it's Medium, and available, I'll take it.
  2. tim s

    Centra Spy And Kit For Sale.

    What type (i.e. solid or topgrip) and size is the glove?
  3. tim s

    Vostok .22 Target Rifles Wanted

    I think there is a Ural rifle (cheaper action) for sale on Guntrader at the mo.
  4. Is the jacket a Euro 46 or a UK 46in? If you would like it to be collected, where are you?
  5. tim s

    Top Grip

    Does anyone have a piece of unwanted top-grip rubber? The elbow patch on my jacket is now nearly smooth on the right sleeve, and I don't think there's enough time to send it off for repair before Bisley. I'm looking for a patch about 2in square to stick on pro tem, until I can send it to Phillipa taylor.
  6. tim s

    Iris Sight For An Anschutz 1413

    It depends on how new and fancy you want. A few older iris eyepieces (with combined colour filters) were advertised for £15 each, and newer fancier ones for up to £100 (about 2/3rd of new). If you are just looking for an variable aperture, with no filters, polarisers, or optics, the new prices start at about £40. You should not need to specify it's for a 1413 as all Anschutz rearsights have the same thread, as do most other German sights.
  7. tim s

    Bleeker Wooden Stock

    Jonty, You can fit an Anschutz 54 into a Bleiker inlet stock with a round-to-square adaptor. The adaptor may need a little filing, and the inlet in the stock will need to be widened for an Anschutz 1800-1900 trigger.
  8. tim s

    Bleeker Wooden Stock

    Jonty, Google Sergei Kamenski. He's not doing too badly with a Bleiker woodstock, as is Vitali Bubnovitch. Ole Kristian Bryhn won a medal or too before switching to a Bleiker alu. Vebjorn Berg shot a few cracking finals with one too.
  9. tim s

    Bleeker Wooden Stock

    In German, I'm reliably informed that the first vowel in a dipthong is silent. Blieker would be said as Bleeker.
  10. tim s

    Gemini Butt Plate

    Not to forget Marco de Nicolo, Jamie Beyerle, and I think Alexander Schmirl. The MEC does appear more often though.
  11. tim s

    Advice On Buying A Rifle In Europe

    Rutty, I'm not sure that is quite true. If you re-chambered the barrel yourself you would not need to reproof, but I believe an RFD would reproof after re-chambering, unless his work did not remove the original proof marks, and certainly would if fitting a new barrel (unless ready proofed). As for the CIP, they do not test, but merely provide the standards for national proof houses.
  12. tim s

    Advice On Buying A Rifle In Europe

    Probably, although I have a niggling memory that a different mark is made. But then I can't see many newly made smallbore rifles failing; I think it's more of a problem with shotguns as the barrels are so much thinner.
  13. tim s

    Advice On Buying A Rifle In Europe

    It is odd, but I think there is a logic behind it. The law states that firearms sold in Britain must be proofed before sale, so if a firearm is bought abroad and not subsequently resold in Britain no proof is needed. Proof is after all consumer protection. I think it's largely moot as many European countries have their own proof requirements, and have signed up to the CIP. As for whether proof is actually needed, it's a bit mediaeval; the proof house fire over-loaded cartridges, and stamp the barrel to show it didn't blow up, and is probably won't blow up during normal use.
  14. tim s

    Advice On Buying A Rifle In Europe

    Mac, only if the rifle will subsequently be sold. I believe that personal imports are not required to be proofed before entry.
  15. Chris, until Anschutz resumed production, albeit in modified form, it was the only way to buy a new one. Anschutz stopped production in the late '90s. Sam, if are desperate, give me a shout.
  16. Basic is up/down. The armadillo can be canted, offset, rotated around the post, as well as angled backwards. It's less complex than a Gemini, but was top if the range for over ten years, and has inspired the very expensive G & E Retro.
  17. Chris, I think Sam is looking for a simpler non-hook butt to go on a shared club rifle.
  18. tim s

    1811 Trigger Guard And Bedding Bolts

    Sam, I've got some M54 bolts somewhere if you cannot get a better offer. These are from a 1413 so may need washers underneath, but would be free. Shortened 1811 stocks are very good for petite shooters though. If you haven't done so already, I can say from experience that rounding off the bottom of the fore-end, makes it more friendly for smaller hands.
  19. tim s

    Right Handed 19 Series Barrel & Action

    Hi Rob, You said no factory markings, does this mean no serial number? Are the barrel/action UK proofed. Is there a bolt? If yes may be interested for new club members.
  20. tim s

    Supermatch Or Xx11 Prone Rifle Found

    Then a 1613 it is. Doesn't really matter what it left the factory as (except to geeks), current set up is more important. Both my rifles have seen several stocks.
  21. tim s

    Slings For Sale

    I'll take the Thune!
  22. tim s

    Supermatch Or Xx11 Prone Rifle Found

    If that;'s the one he had in his profile, where the fore-end is very deep in front of the triggerguard and tapers upwards, it's a 1610. Same action, barrel trigger as a 1613, but a different stock.
  23. tim s

    Fireing Pin

    Try a little grease on the cocking cam.
  24. tim s

    Gemini Butt Plate

    You may lose vertical adjustment though, or end up with only very coarse adjustment. I'm sure Nibbs will sell you a carrier.
  25. tim s

    Fireing Pin

    SRC, the Match 54 bolt cocks as you open the bolt. Do you mean it's hard to cock, or that it's hard to close the bolt on a loaded chamber? Unless the existing piring pin has burrs (or some other damage) on the engagement surface where is cams against the bolt, I'm not sure a new pin would make bolt operation any easier. However a good clean, and some lubrication might make a difference, if you haven't already tried this. Disassemble the bolt (instructions can be found in free PDF format on the Anschutz website), and give everything a good clean - it's amazing how much crud gets in the bolt. Dry thoroughly, as the internals don't need to be heavily oiled. Then smear a little grease the cocking cam (the v-shaped notch in the bolt handle collar), and the front/back surfaces of the base of the bolt handle; these are the main bearing surfaces as the bolt cocks, and closes. I also put a tiny dab of grease in the left-hand locking lug recess (the notch opposite the bolt-handle slot). I use molybdenum grease, but other other types will work. While you are at this, clean the loading tray, the breech face of the barrel, and the relief slots in the barrel for the bolt claws. A toothpick and cotton buds dipped in oil or Parker-Hale 009 are ideal. If the bolt is stiff on closing, then maybe a good clean of the barrel with a bronze brush and Parker-Hale 009*, and then plenty of patches will help. Remember the bullet is pushed into the rifling grooves as the bolt closes, so this takes more force if the grooves are filled with fouling. Too much crud can degrade accuracy anyway. *If you don't have 009, Hoppes no 9, Shooters Choice MC7, or Boretech Rimfire Blend will work just as well. Gun oil won't dissolve crud in the same way.
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