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tim s

ShootingUni
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Everything posted by tim s

  1. 1811 Trigger Guard And Bedding Bolts

    Sam, I've got some M54 bolts somewhere if you cannot get a better offer. These are from a 1413 so may need washers underneath, but would be free. Shortened 1811 stocks are very good for petite shooters though. If you haven't done so already, I can say from experience that rounding off the bottom of the fore-end, makes it more friendly for smaller hands.
  2. Right Handed 19 Series Barrel & Action

    Hi Rob, You said no factory markings, does this mean no serial number? Are the barrel/action UK proofed. Is there a bolt? If yes may be interested for new club members.
  3. Supermatch Or Xx11 Prone Rifle Found

    Then a 1613 it is. Doesn't really matter what it left the factory as (except to geeks), current set up is more important. Both my rifles have seen several stocks.
  4. Slings For Sale

    I'll take the Thune!
  5. Supermatch Or Xx11 Prone Rifle Found

    If that;'s the one he had in his profile, where the fore-end is very deep in front of the triggerguard and tapers upwards, it's a 1610. Same action, barrel trigger as a 1613, but a different stock.
  6. Fireing Pin

    Try a little grease on the cocking cam.
  7. Gemini Butt Plate

    You may lose vertical adjustment though, or end up with only very coarse adjustment. I'm sure Nibbs will sell you a carrier.
  8. Fireing Pin

    SRC, the Match 54 bolt cocks as you open the bolt. Do you mean it's hard to cock, or that it's hard to close the bolt on a loaded chamber? Unless the existing piring pin has burrs (or some other damage) on the engagement surface where is cams against the bolt, I'm not sure a new pin would make bolt operation any easier. However a good clean, and some lubrication might make a difference, if you haven't already tried this. Disassemble the bolt (instructions can be found in free PDF format on the Anschutz website), and give everything a good clean - it's amazing how much crud gets in the bolt. Dry thoroughly, as the internals don't need to be heavily oiled. Then smear a little grease the cocking cam (the v-shaped notch in the bolt handle collar), and the front/back surfaces of the base of the bolt handle; these are the main bearing surfaces as the bolt cocks, and closes. I also put a tiny dab of grease in the left-hand locking lug recess (the notch opposite the bolt-handle slot). I use molybdenum grease, but other other types will work. While you are at this, clean the loading tray, the breech face of the barrel, and the relief slots in the barrel for the bolt claws. A toothpick and cotton buds dipped in oil or Parker-Hale 009 are ideal. If the bolt is stiff on closing, then maybe a good clean of the barrel with a bronze brush and Parker-Hale 009*, and then plenty of patches will help. Remember the bullet is pushed into the rifling grooves as the bolt closes, so this takes more force if the grooves are filled with fouling. Too much crud can degrade accuracy anyway. *If you don't have 009, Hoppes no 9, Shooters Choice MC7, or Boretech Rimfire Blend will work just as well. Gun oil won't dissolve crud in the same way.
  9. Gemini Butt Plate

    Yes you would need the carrier, and probably the rods too.
  10. Supermatch Or Xx11 Prone Rifle Found

    Arthur isn't the cheapest, but I would trust him over condition.
  11. Supermatch Or Xx11 Prone Rifle Found

    Tim, At 6' 1" an xx11 stock should be ok. These are a little longer in the butt than xx13 and xx07 rifles (back in the day when these were designed prone positions were a lower and wider), and can be a bit too long for those of average height, whereas you just wouldn't need to extend the butt as much. Raiser blocks for the sights may be your friend.
  12. Supermatch Or Xx11 Prone Rifle Found

    An older or cheaper rifle is an option. There isn't a lot of difference between, say a 1970s 1413 Supermatch (with adjustable cheekpiece) and the 1980s 1813. The 1813 has a much better trigger, and a faster firing pin, but the barrels are made in the same way as the 1413, and in terms of ergonomics the stocks are broadly similar (some 1813s have a better buttplate than the 1413, and some have the same). The chronological age of a barrel isn't so important as the condition, i.e it doesn't have a ridiculous round count, isn't bulged, and isn't rusty or pitted. Alternatively, have you thought of a Prone rifle, these share the same heavy barrel as a Supermatch, but have a simpler non-thumbhole stock. Anschutz prone rifle from the 1970s onwards had adjustable cheekpieces, and a better grip shape than the BSA. Standard rifles are also cheaper, although the stock design isn't optimal for prone. It's worth remembering that your first rifle doesn't have to last forever; if you paid a fair price, you won't lose much when selling it on. Also if the barrel is good, just upgrading to a modern stock can be a more economical option. Anschutz stocks are very easily changed.
  13. Supermatch Or Xx11 Prone Rifle Found

    Tim, if you look here: http://forum.stirton.com/index.php/topic/5518-advice-on-first-rifle-purchase/ and here http://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=46644 you'll find notes on looking over a used rifle. There aren't too many pitfalls. The rifle in the link is IMO a little on the high side; the sights are basic, although the buttplate is the latest version.
  14. 6Br

    Henry, does your promise cover reloading kit too?
  15. Prone Rifle Stocks

    Sam, xx11. XX10 stocks were cheaper supermatches; beechwood not walnut, and a deep tapered fore-end in place of a palm rest.
  16. Headspace Gauges

    Try Barry Nesom on 01751 473124 . Or if you know a machinist or model engineer, ask if they will make you a set. My set were paid for in beer.
  17. Info And Wanted

    Yes you can buy a stock without an FAC. The parts of the rifle that are licensed are the bits that are "pressure bearing", i.e. the barrel, action, and bolt. Stocks, sights, and triggers can be bought without a license. However, it's probably better to wait a while, and buy a complete rifle. Unless you can afford to buy brand new, it's much cheaper to look for a good second hand rifle, that to assemble one from parts. See my response to your post in the equipment review forum.
  18. Anschutz Smallbore Target Rifle For Sale

    Olnmfc, the issue of barrel steel has been mentioned before, but only anecdotally. I've never heard any evidence. Yes you can sell the trigger separately. It's only pressure bearing parts (i.e. barrel, action, bolt body/handle - the bits that have a proof mark) that are covered by the FAC.
  19. Anschutz Smallbore Target Rifle For Sale

    I don't think that quite fair, it was only the stock that was mis-labelled. The barrel/action has been described as a Match 54 from the start, rather than as an 1813 or 1913. To be honest, other than the matter of the foresight mount, a 1613 isn't mechanically very different form a new 1913. Yes, a 1613 needs a specific firing pin and spring , but the trigger is functionally identical to later models. Even experienced shooters can find it hard to identify the age of a rifle. See here: http://forum.stirton.com/index.php/topic/788-rifle-and-boots-foe-sale/?hl=1613&do=findComment&comment=9280
  20. Cheek Piece

    Batty is right. You can make your own cheekpiece. A length of softwood battening is a good start, as it's easy to carve to shape. You can use this as a template to make a "best" one from nice hardwood later if desired.
  21. Anschutz Smallbore Target Rifle For Sale

    Yep, I meant the trigger mechanism itself. Besides there's no point in checking your triggerguard, because it (and the stock) are later replacements. John, as I said before, FWB bolt handles have never been swept back. The handle is bent upwards, but not curved backwards.
  22. Anschutz Smallbore Target Rifle For Sale

    J, yes you can get curved handles for 1400 rifles. I've seen Matthias et al fit them at the Bisley service stand. Like any replacement handle, I think they need to be fitted to the rifle, not a drop in part. Also as the handle is a pressure bearing part it's proofed and I think would need to be listed on your FAC if you want a spare. FWB have never had a swept back handle, your memory is playing tricks. The handle was curved, but like a gull-wing.
  23. Anschutz Smallbore Target Rifle For Sale

    Olnmfc, the serial number does help. Anschutz actions are pretty much sequentially numbered, unlike some other manufacturers where a stamped action could sit for years before being built into a complete rifle. From the SN the barrel/action is a very late 1613, probably made in 1980, or maybe late '79. Pull the bolt from the action, and look at the underside; if you can see the firing pin through a slot (running from just behind the nose into the full-round section) it's a 1613. No slot, and the barrel/action is a very early 1813. The acid test is the trigger; Anschutz marked the trigger housing with the last two digits of the catalogue number. A 1613 is marked 71 for 5071, and 1813 is marked 18 for 5018. There's nothing odd about an 1813 manual referring to a Match 54 bolt. The 1813 is a Match 54 rifle, just the latest version in the '80s. The current 1913 is still advertised as a/the Match 54.
  24. Anschutz Smallbore Target Rifle For Sale

    Ark, the handle could be a later replacement, but the bolt itself cannot be older than '76 or '77 (whenever the 1600 rifles were first made). It cannot be a 1400. Look at the back end; the end cap is the truncated cone introduced with 1600 rifles in '77 -ish. This end cap will not fit a 1400 bolt; the cap is threaded, but 1400 bolts have a bayonet fitting. Nor is it a 1400 action with a replacement bolt; the action is stamped S and F by the safety catch. 1400 rifles don't have this as the safety was on the bolt. Did you get that list from the Anschutz webiste? The letter code is correct, but was not introduced until 1977 or '78. Until '77 the date was stamped as numbers not letters. The earliest letter coded barrel I've seen is '78. A 1968 barrel will be marked 68, not GI. Again more apologies for the thead hijack.
  25. Anschutz Smallbore Target Rifle For Sale

    No, not necessarily. Some 1600 rifles have the old style straight handle w. small steel ball, and some have the curved handle w. large plastic ball. The change happened in '78 or early '79. That said, I think there were considerably more 1800 rifles made, which all have the curved handle, than 1600 rifles w. curved handle, so it's not an unreasonable thought. As the OP listed the barrel as Match 54, I'd lean to a 1613. Apologies for the thread hijack.
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