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Huey

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Posts posted by Huey

  1. We have two of these for club 'scopes. I'd say they were a bit tall for prone as the scope is attached from below so naturally sits high. It doesn't have the reach to bring the eyepiece that far back over the mat either. Might work best with an angled eyepiece 'scope that's held in a ring within which it can rotate which may overcome the issues I mention; we use our with compact straight-eyepiece 'scopes.

    I concur the P&T adjustments are handy, though ours do suffer from backlash.

  2. No-one needs two Scatts (can't believe it's me saying that 😱) so the USB rig has to go. Listed on eBay as item 164256734807 (valid from 1000h-ish 22/06/2020) and I'll knock off £50 for existing Stirton members (cash on collection or payment through PayPal via Friends and Family prior to posting please).

    Happy for local collection and/or shooting brethren to facilitate assured carriage.

    As stated it works fully on Windows 7 & Windows 10. Clincher was installing the drivers in Windows 10 despite Scatt's website claiming these aren't required!! I have to say, their USB diagnostic program worked really very well for proving this. Uses Scatt Pro software.

    Any Q's, post 'em up or PM me 👍

    Cheers,
    H.

  3. On 02/09/2019 at 08:34, K.Loukas said:

    Hi 

    I Just edited the post as I had some feedback the actual model is an 1813 I'm waiting for more info as for year of manufacture ext from Anschutz.

    Kosta

     

    Kosta, if your barrel is stainless then it's unlikely to be an Anschutz one. Unfortunately that's where the date stamp (two letters or year digits) would have been. You could however post the first 3 or 4 digits of the serial number here (which should be on the action) and achieve an estimated year from the hive mind.

  4. Yes please Rutty, I've been after a tidy one of these for ages as I have a crossover sight that I want to permanently fit to one for loaning out at my club. 

    Please PM me your preferred payment details. 

    Huey. 

  5. On ‎16‎/‎08‎/‎2019 at 18:49, gordon said:

    5nm on the front two and 5.5nm on the rear two...were the settings that the chap who I bought the rifle from recommended.

    At the moment I'm getting flyers into the 9 ring...in the horizontal ,not vertical plane.

    So the torque wrench was to make sure I was getting the correct torque on the four bolts (Anschutz 2013 ) And be able to try different settings if necessary?

    Certainly advocate the torque wrench to ensure the settings are known and repeatable. I would also suggest doing your own trials with torque settings, especially if you don't have the history of how your current advice was arrived at (though don't forget to undo the bolts using the standard wiggly allen key and not the torque wrench ;) ).

    You could also change the ammo (or batch) and see if the flyers persist, assuming your technique is OK. You have a barrel tuner so that is another area of experimentation, and likely prior to getting too deep into torque settings. And only change one thing at a time to know what it is that's had an effect.

    Personally, I set my 20xx rifles to 5nm and have not experimented, purely because I've not found the need. The rifles shoot consistently in the middle with the wobbly thing at the rear the only variable. The less to fuss over, the better IMHO. It's possible 5nm could be improved upon, but I suspect not by anything I could detect. I torque the muzzle end pair first, then the butt end pair after uncracking the previous bolt settings half a turn using the wiggly tool, with the rifle held vertically on the butt end to keep contact on the recoil lug.

    H.

  6. There are some bicycle torque wrenches on the market now that offer the same torque range but are not quite as expensive, if you didn't need to absolutely have the AHG one. I'd also rate the AHG version over the (graunchy and less well made, IMHO) Gehmann of similar format.

    H.

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